1. Start by removing your bindings (taking care to remember your stance angles) and then turn the board over and check for base damage, edge dings, delams etc. Any major damage and you're probably best off bringing it in for us to have a look at.

2. Place and secure your board (Fig 1). A vice is ideal (around £30), although there are many things you can improvise with: chairs, two naked venezuelan ladies kneeling...

3. Prepare Your Edges. Run a rough (or 'Bastard') file along your side edge in a TIP TO TAIL direction (Fig 2). This takes off any hard or especially rough areas of your rail.

4. Fine Tuning. Its best to use a file guide (basically a fine file housed in a plastic casing that you can adjust the angle of, thus allowing edge bevel to be added; £6-£50). Again in a TIP TO TAIL direction on the side edge, move the file over the edge in a smooth but firm overlapping motion (Fig 3). If you want to get better edge grip, set the file angle to 89 degreed. Now repeat on the base edge (Fig 4). To help the board turn, a base bevel of 89 degrees is best.

5. Polish Your Edges. Using a whet stone (£4-£20), run it along your edges, and lightly polish both side and base edges (Fig 5).

6. De-burr and Detune. Using a very fine file, or better still a rubber de-burring block (£2-£15), rub the edges to remove any burrs (Fig 6). Now place the board flat on its base and find the tip and tail points of contact (where the board is actually in contact with the floor) and mark them. Begin detuning (blunting) yor edges. FOR BEGINNERS, blunt from tip to contact point, then 7cm towards the tail. Then blunt tail to contact point, then 5cm towards the tip. FOR INTERMEDIATES, do the same but blunt tip down 5cm and tail up 3cm (Fig 7.)

If you don't carry out these steps you won't have the edge hold and control you could have. Remember, you can lose up to 40% of your edge grip in one day of riding in hard or icy conditions.

Now you've finished tuning your edges, your base needs speed - a hot wax.

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